Dress Shirt Collars

It’s important to know the best type of collar to get because each type will make your face and upper body look a bit different. There’s several different type of collars, but the there are a few main ones you should know:

Narrow Spread or Pointed Collar

Medium Spread Collar

Medium Spread Button Down Collar

Widespread Collar

Cut-Away Collar

Club Collar or Rounded Collar

Below are some small tips on what type of collar is best for you:

Narrow Face(you need to broaden your face)
wrong collar: narrow spread pointed collar b/c it makes your face look even thinner
right collar: widespread collar b/c it it evens out your face

Round Face
(you need to lengthen your face)wrong collar: wide-spread collar b/c it’ll make your head look larger
right collar: pointed or narrow spread collar b/c it makes your face look thinner

Big Head
(you need to make your head appear smaller)wrong collar: pointed or narrow spread collar b/c it’ll make your head look even bigger
right collar: wide-spread or cut-away collar b/c make your head look normal, lol.

Small Head
(you need to make your head appear bigger)
wrong collar: wide-spread collar b/c it’ll make your head look even smaller.
right collar: medium spread

Long Neck
(you need to shorten your neck)wrong collar: pointed collar b/c it accentuates the length of your neck.
right collar: medium spread or wide spread collar b/c it’ll give your face balance.

Short Neck
(you need to lengthen your neck)wrong collar: short or cutaway collar
right collar: narrow pointed collar b/c it’ll lengthen your neck

The Polo List

A-town rapper Ludacris is a huge Ralph Lauren Polo fan
BET Awards, June 2008
 

Polos are one of the essentials of a gentleman's wardrobe. You can easily wear them in a dressy or casual manner. There are hundreds of different types of polos you can choose from, but I've narrowed the polo types and brands down to make the 1st official Polo List.

A mini-history lesson: The polo shirt was first known as a tennis shirt. It was designed by 7-time French Grand Slam tennis pro, Rene Lacoste. He designed it because he needed a more comfortable shirt to play tennis in. He first wore it in the 1926 US Open Championship and in 1927 he added the crocodile emblem. Polo players began to heavily wear the shirt in the 1930s (after Lacoste began to mass produce them)- hence the nickname "polo shirt". In 1972 Ralph Lauren included the "polo shirt" as a prominent part of his line called Polo- to further boost popularity. Many English speaking westerners started calling the tennis shirt a "polo shirt" on a widespread level because of Ralph Lauren immense popularity . . . see, you learn something new everyday  okay, back to the list. . .

The Official Urban Gentleman Polo List

Ralph Lauren – the Classic polo

This is the polo that everyone thinks of when they say the word polo. The fit of these are the best and now Ralph Lauren allows you to "create-your-own" polo.
www.ralphlauren.com
Retail price: $79.50 – $125.00
Average Sale prce: $45.00

Lacoste- the Original polo aka the Preppy polo

When you buy Lacoste, you buy the real deal- it's the first
polo ever made. This polo automatically preps up any look,
making it a must in your wardrobe.
www.lacoste.com
Retail price: 79.50
Average Sale price: $50.00

Express- the Modern polo

Express's polo is quickly becoming a favorite of stylish men,
especially since they added the big-face lion logo.
express.com
Retail price: $44.50
Average Sale price: $19.99

Chaps- the Bargain polo

This is somewhat of the "starter" polo, meaning that it's the average guys first polo if they didn't grow up wearing it. It's a good quality brand that can be found in most stores.
www.chaps.com
Retail price: $39.50
Average Sale Price: $19.99 or less

Sean John – the Comfort polo

What can I say, Diddy is a great designer- even if he's crazy,
lol. His polos fit perfectly and they make most guys look fly.
Plus, it's always good to support black designers.
www.seanjohn.com

www.drjays.com
Retail price: $52.00+
Average Sale Price: $30.00

Rocawear – the Hip-Hop polo

Again another rap-star delivers (Jay-Z & Damon Dash). Rocawear has a great line of men's clothing. One of its best feature is the R logo- which always matches the shirts lining. Rocawear polos are really cool, they remind me of Miami for some reason.
www.rocawear.com

www.drjays.com
Retail price: $58.00
Average Sale price: $35.00

Burberry- the Gentleman polo

With Burberry you can do no wrong. The polos are just about as classic as Ralph Lauren and Lacoste. The best thing about Burberry polos is the high-quality material and rich colors.
I've recognized that most rich and wealthy executives almost exclusively wear Burberry polos.
www.burberryusaonline.com
Retail price: $95- $160+
Average sale price: $75.00

Penguin- the Vintage polo

This is everyone's favorite extra polo. Penguin is a brand that not everyone knows about, but those who do swear by it. I've met guys who exclusively wear Penguin polos. They're meant for young stylish guys who enjoy vintage looking polos.
www.penguinclothing.com
Retail price: $59.00
Average sale price: $39.00

Coogi- the Artistic polo

Awwwhh, Coogi- so colorful and bright!
There's nothing like a coogi polo, they are so detailed and creatively designed.
www.shopcoogi.com
Retail price: $78-$88
Average sale price: $58.00

AE (American Eagle)- the Schoolyard polo

When I think about AE, I think about private school kids-
which is cool. American Eagle is a really good all-american
brand, with great polos for good prices. You can also
customize your polo, I made a pink one w/ a navy eagle
on it (showed above).
www.ae.com
Retail price: 24.50-34.50
Average sale price: $14.50

Guilty Brotherhood- the Lupe polo

This has to be the most googled polo in the world right now. Ever since Lupe spit his line about liking ". . .Guilty Brotherhood Polos" on Gold Watch everybody has been trying to get there hands on one of these. Unfortunately it's not that easy to cop via the internet.
http://guiltybrotherhood.com/
Retail: $105-$170
To order email, info@guiltybrotherhood.com 962-62364

Blending In & standing out – A Post On Camouflage

Today we’re taking a look at a current popular trend in menswear: camouflage. (Sorry, I missed the blizzard, but don’t worry we have plenty of freezing-cold weather posts coming soon)

Lately camo has been popping up on everything from small accessories to tailored garments and, as with any bold pattern, it’s a game of high risk/high reward.

As you probably know by now, I am a strong believer in all things authentic, as well as all things (or at least most things) in moderation. Therefore, as general advice for pulling-off camo: keep it authentic (all versions here are actual vintage army gear) and keep it in moderation by using it as the sole pattern, keeping the rest of your look muted and streamlined.

Here, three style-forward ways to wear camo.

1. Sharp Casual + Infantry Pant

Combining tailored pieces with a dose of camo is a fresh and unexpected way to add some manly ruggedness to a sharp look (especially if the camo is authentically beat-up).

I don’t do this terribly often, but similar to last post, I’m mixing-it-up by pairing a utilitarian pant with a sleek “white collar” dress shoe. I guess because of my love for rugged/manly pants and sharp well-made shoes, in a way I’m subconsciously trying to pioneer this look.

Double breasted wool coat by Rag&Bone (size 40). Grey crewneck wool sweater (size M). Vintage camo pants (altered, size ?). White oxford club collar shirt by Ralph Lauren Polo (altered, size 15.5). Vintage wool tie. Pebbled leather wingtips by Scarpe Di Bianco.

Bonus Tip: do the camo thing once in a blue moon. Perhaps once a month or so…you don’t want to look like a wannabe soldier.

2. Simple Casual + Fatigue Jacket

A vintage fatigue jacket, in camo or solid olive cotton, is a great layering piece. I picked up this vintage one for $30 and I’ve worn it with everything from a v-neck and jeans (as shown here), to a waistcoat and and tie, to a t-shirt and sneakers, and layered it several other ways.

Bonus Tip: pairing strong orange with camo is a cool subtle nod to hunting camouflage rather than fighting camouflage – a mix that goes back a long way and therefore is not unnatural to the eye.

Vintage camo fatigue jacket (size 36). Orange V-Neck by Uniqlo (size M). Khaki subtle shirt by Theory (size M). Jeans by JCrew (vintage slim size 34). Socks by Happy Socks. Loafers by Bass. Watch by Montblanc.

Bonus Tip: extent your shirt cycle through the Fall/Winter by wearing your short sleeve shirts under knits – they also bunch less and fit more easily under sweaters

3. Just A Touch

With a strong pattern like camo, often all you need is a small touch. What better small touch that a pocket square?

Bonus Tip: this is my first time wearing these new dark jeans. Notice how slim they are, specifically in the thighs. For the first few wears, your jeans should be hugging your legs and be snug in the waist. Within a matter of days (sometimes hours, depending on the denim) they will loosen up nicely to a “slim not skinny” resting state. I promise.

Olive cotton jacket by MAB (bespoke, my own design). Beige henley by Ralph Lauren Polo (size M). Olive scarf by H&M. Jeans by JCrew. Camo bandana pocket square. Suede chukka boots by John Varvatos.

J’s and Color Accents

Quick background: at one time I owned over fifty pairs of sneakers, including all 21 of the original Jordans. All authentic of course, and now all sold on eBay, mostly in exchange for designer clothing.

Being a basketball player for most of my life, I think I’ll always have a soft spot for a pair of original J’s. I’ve been wearing them for so many years, why stop now?

These (or the III’s featured previously here) are my favorite Jordans. MJ’s first sneaker with Nike, 1985. The shoes that were officially banned by the NBA because they broke the “uniform policy” and the black and red colorway was considered too “aggressive”. (MJ of course still wore these in every game of the ’85/’86 season. Nike gladly paid the $5,000 per-game fine)

Here’s another move from back in my bball days: color matching.

Remember the days when you were the man if you had the latest Jordan colorway, with the perfectly-matching-no-matter-how-obscure-the-color t-shirt? Well I guess I haven’t completely given up on them. I still think it’s cool to highlight color accents in an outfit once in a while. Just remember to do it rarely, subtly and in good taste.

Again, would I recommend this look to every guy? No. But do I feel that this authentically represents part of my personality/individuality? Yes. As I’ve written before: I don’t necessarily encourage copying my personal outfits, but rather understanding the concepts that helped generate them in order to create a style that is your own.

Sneakers by Air Jordan (original colorway, re-released in 2009). Chinos by Ralph Lauren Polo (34×32). White oxford shirt by Band of Outsiders (size 3). Black cotton jacket by Gucci (size 50). Watch by Montblanc (42mm Timewalker). Watchband off eBay. “Clubmaster” shades by Ray-Ban.

Wearing sneakers with a tailored pant and slim shirt can be tricky. It’s important to choose a sneaker that is not too bulky – even though these Jordans are high-tops, they have a relatively streamlined silhouette (not much padding in those 1985 bball sneaks). I also bought them a half size smaller, to accomodate for their slight bulkiness (as I do with most sneakers).

Also, it’s important that you pair the sneakers with a pant that has a narrower leg opening and an inseam of decent length – a little “puddling” down the leg helps introduce the shoe and keeps the feel of the outfit more laid-back and casual. Here I’m wearing a pair of chinos with a 16″ opening and a full break (even after one roll), for example.

Remember to keep the rest of the look muted with neutral colors (let the shoes make the statement), and keep it casual with an untucked, open oxford and a lightweight layer.

Serafina Givenchy Fall 2011 Navy Wool Bomber Jacket and Guns N’ Roses Tee

There is definitely quite a bit of drama stirring around Kanye West and Kim Kardashian and it seems they don’t mind fueling the fire. They both grabbed a bite to eat at Serafina in New York City today. You know Kanye loves some Givenchy and he rocked the brand’s Fall 2011 $2,189 Navy Wool Bomber Jacket with a Guns N’ Roses screenprint tee:

He finished the look with Air Yeezy 2 Sneakers.
His jacket is sold-out everywhere! It is crafted from navy wool, but boasts black leather contrast sleeves resembling a varsity jacket.

Check out a similar style on the runway below.

Though his tee is a bit of a mystery and most likely vintage, you can snag it for less with this $16 Guns N’ Roses ‘Skull Guns Top Hat’ T-Shirt.

Regardless of the drama, Yeezy sure does know how to put together a cool look.

What do you think?

Jordan Son of Mars GS - White/Prism Blue-Wolf Grey

In essence, the Jordan Son of Mars is a "Jr." shoe, so it makes sense to see the latest Jordan hybrid hit retail in colorways exclusive to the youngest sneaker enthusiasts. This GS Son of Mars sports a clean white leather base with grey working laser detailing on the cross-strap and elephant print rands wrapped around the toebox and heel. Bright red handles Jumpman branding on the tongue and heel, while Prism Blue takes care of the textile inner lining, heel pull-tab and speckle detail on the midsole "teeth." A translucent rubber outsole provides the finishing touch below.

Set for a Monday, June 16 release, you can grab this grade school Son of Mars from CNCPTS today.

06/16/12 Jordan Son of Mars
512242-109 White/Prism Blue-Wolf Grey
$115.00

Vans Authentic - Watermelon Pack Reissue

Originally released back in 2009 for the ladies, Vans is gearing up to re-release the popular Watermelon Pack led by the classic Authentic.

Taking center stage as part of the popular pack, the classic Vans Authentic is hit with a red-based watermelon-inspired color scheme. A red watermelon print works the entire upper on them, while green handles the vulcanized sole down below to complete the refreshing inspiration.

Look for the Vans Authentic "Watermelon Pack" to release soon at select Vans retailers nationwide.